Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Up, Curve, Up, Curve, Up....


Since I didn't get to celebrate my Peruvian independence days (off) in the end of July, Hugo and I decided to take a long weekend trip to Kuelap - an ancient pre-Inca fortress up high on top of the mountains (considered the northern Machu Picchu of Peru). We bought a tent and set out on a day long fear filled, curvy mountain bus ride. Our bus hugged the mountains as we curved up and down, one blind curve after another. Thankful there wasn't much traffic on the road big enough for only one vehicle.

Our hike up to Kuelap was much like our bus ride the day before. It curved up the mountain; We thought at each turn we would come to the end our journey. We were told 3 hours, but our hike turned into 7 hrs. This included many breaks: re-energize with leftover rice and meat dinner, coca leaf chew, bathing in the fresh water stream, etc...But, it didn't help that we didn't pack light which gave us an excuse to stop every 1/2 hour.
Symbols important to the ChaCha cultura
When made our descend down from Kuelap I had some time to journal. An excerpt...

We weaved up the mountain and had no idea that we would find ourselves on top of the world. Donkeys and kids passed us with ease on our journey up. The river below became a mere blue line. Mud houses opened our imagination to the possibility of living in pure beauty in the harsh mountain terrain. Our bags pulled at our shoulders, our feet screamed for an end, but the coca leaves opened up our lungs and the fierce wind entered our hearts.
The sweetest sight was the fortress wall. Still far away, but now within our reach. The wall stretched to cover the entire top of the mountain. I think if we were to climb any higher we would have touched heaven's door.
Our guide, a teenager probably interested mostly in soccer and girls, gave us a glimpse into an ancient world. The fortress was overgrown with jungle like trees. Dwellings, bones, walls remain. For a moment I wanted to travel back to pre-Inca times and witness and learn deep lessons that we have now forgotten. How to work together in community for the good of all. How to cherish and honor those that have passed and those that are in our midst. How to give thanks to the earth and all it provides.
I can not imagine why any community that builds a fortress in such amazing beauty would leave it to the trees. For beyond the fortress, the surrounding mountains inspire curiosity, greatness and peace. Truly the sensation that the world is yours.
I went to the top of the world. And it was beautiful.

Hugo with our 14 yr. old guide leaving the Kuelap fortress

Our long weekend turned into a longer weekend because of difficulties in transportation - which included, but was not limited to, a blocked bridge due to protest of yet another unjust action by powerful governments which I am too uninformed about to comment on. The blocked bridge detoured us and put us on a canoe to cross into what felt like jungle, yet coffee, territory in order to get on more mototaxi's and buses. I am now happily "home" with no travel plans in the near future.

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